Last week in the market, goat

The other week, the main Spanish grocery store listed goat meat at a good price, $3.99 a pound. You need to exercise caution when buying chopped goat. It’s often more bone than yummy meat. This selection looked good and meaty, so I took home about two nice-looking pounds.

Looks were not deceiving; this selection had a good share of meat embedded in the ever-present bones. The cut also visually promised some good marrow in the boney crevasses.

Next decision was what to make with these treasures? Of course curry goat came to mind. I carry a memory of Boxing Day at a hilltop estate in Jamaica now fifty years ago enjoying, among other local culinary delights, a tasty curry goat with boiled green bananas. The local Guyanese roti shop has a lovely curry goat; the owner always has the bananas for me and others.

Curry, however, is not enjoyed by Daughter. I decided to turn to my cookbook collection instead of the ready reference of Google. A search through The Joy of Cooking and The New Basics (both really good go-to standard books) as well as a selection of Greek cookbooks came up empty. No recipes for this beautiful goat.

With no print choices, my next resource was Google where I found a Greek goat stewed with herbs and wine, Tsigariasto, said to be from Crete. Like other stews, I made it a day before to give it 24 hours to gain in tastiness. This strategy worked. And in my inimitable way, I made some additions, based either on instinct or what was on-hand in the larder.

Goat Stewed with Herbs and Wine. Season 2 pounds of bone-in goat (or lamb if you are averse to goat) with ¾ tsp salt, ½ tsp ground black pepper, 1 ½ tbsp. fresh oregano (I used my dried Greek oregano).

The recipe calls for eight smallish shallots, cut ¼ inch off the ends of each shallot. Bring 2 quarts of water to boil and blanch the shallots (30 seconds to one minute in the boiling water). Cool, peel, and set aside, keeping them whole.

meat nicely browning

Brown the meat in a skillet; set aside in a baking dish. Add the shallots to the skillet, cook for a minute.* Add ½ cup of dry white wine to the shallots, scraping up the browned bits. Cook til reduced by half, then add to the meat. Add a few springs of fresh oregano over the top.

*I also picked up some nice leeks while at the market. I sliced them (white section and some green then cleaned them a bowl of water. When the shallots were nicely softened, I added the leeks to the pan to cook. A nice addition.

Cover the meat and shallots with a sheet of parchment and the lid. Bake at 275 Fahrenheit for 2 ½ to 3 hours. Check the meat half-way through cooking to make sure pan has not dried out. The wine and juices should be enough to cook the meat.

Constant Companion and I enjoyed this meal with a green salad and some steamed millet*, a grain forgotten in the pantry. It’s easy to prepare and very good. The recipe recommended a side dish of bitter greens, like dandelion greens. I had none in the fridge.

* Actually, following the directions I replaced plain water with the water the shallots had been blanched in.

Millet topped with stewed meat and shallots

Leave a comment